The Food and Drug Administration has made a landmark decision that could transform sun protection in the United States. For the first time in nearly three decades, a new chemical UV filter has been approved for use in sunscreens. This ingredient, known as bemotrizinolhas been widely used in Europe and Asia for years, and its approval in the U.S. has dermatologists and consumers alike celebrating.
Dr. Heather Rogersa dermatologist based in Seattle and a fellow of the American Academy of Dermatologycalls this approval “a very big deal.” Bemotrizinol offers several advantages over the chemical sunscreen ingredients previously available in the U.S., making it a highly anticipated addition to the market.
Superior Broad-Spectrum Protection
One of the most significant benefits of bemotrizinol is its ability to block both UVA and UVB rays effectively. UVA rays are known for causing premature aging and wrinkles, while UVB rays are responsible for sunburns. Both types of rays can contribute to skin cancer. Current sunscreens in the U.S. excel at protecting against UVB rays but fall short in UVA protection.
Traditionally, U.S. sunscreens rely on avobenzone to block UVA rays. However, avobenzone is not photo stablemeaning its protection can degrade quickly when exposed to sunlight. This breakdown can lead to skin irritation. In contrast, bemotrizinol is photo stable, offering more consistent and reliable protection. Kelly Dobosa cosmetic chemist at the University of Cincinnatiexplains that bemotrizinol’s stability means that even if you go a little longer than two hours without reapplying, you’ll still have some protection left. However, experts still recommend reapplying sunscreen every two hours for optimal safety.
A Proven Track Record
Bemotrizinol has been a staple in European and Asian sunscreens for decades. However, its approval in the U.S. has taken 20 years due to the rigorous regulatory process. In the U.S., sunscreens are regulated as over-the-counter drugs, requiring extensive testing for safety and efficacy. The European company DSM-Firmenich invested at least $18 million over more than two decades to gain FDA approval for bemotrizinol.
The extensive testing has resulted in a robust safety profile for bemotrizinol. Alexa Friedmana senior scientist with the Environmental Working Grouphighlights that bemotrizinol has more safety data supporting its use than any other chemical sunscreen ingredient currently approved in the U.S. Animal testing showed no concerns like reproductive harm, and clinical trials on humans found that it does not irritate the skin, even with repeated use. Additionally, bemotrizinol’s larger molecules mean it is not readily absorbed by the skin and into the bloodstream, addressing concerns about the absorption of other chemical sunscreen ingredients.
Enhanced Aesthetics and User-Friendliness
Until now, the only sunscreen ingredient in the U.S. that offered the same advantages as bemotrizinol was zinc oxide. While zinc oxide provides excellent broad-spectrum protection, it can leave an unattractive white cast on the skin, particularly for people of color. Bemotrizinol, on the other hand, is transparent on the skin and does not require mixing with as many other chemical filters and stabilizers to achieve broad-spectrum protection. This should lead to more aesthetically pleasing and less greasy sunscreen formulations in the near future.
DSM-Firmenich has exclusive rights to market bemotrizinol in the U.S. for 18 months under the brand name Parsol Shield. The company expects the first sunscreen products containing bemotrizinol to hit American store shelves around September. This approval is not just a win for consumers but also a significant step forward for public health, as it encourages the use of sunscreen that people will trust and enjoy using.
