In the world of dairy, few products have sparked as much controversy as raw milk. Once considered a niche product for health enthusiasts, it has now captured the attention of more than 10 million Americans. But what drives this phenomenon, and why does it continue to thrive despite well-documented health risks?
At the heart of this debate stands Mark McAfee the owner of America’s largest raw-milk dairy, Raw Farm. With annual sales reaching approximately $30 million, McAfee has become a prominent figure in the raw milk movement. His journey, however, is not without controversy, as his farm has been linked to multiple outbreaks and recalls over the years.
Raw Milk: A Health Trend or a Public Health Risk?
The debate over raw milk centers on its purported health benefits versus the well-documented risks. Most scientists and health experts agree that raw milk offers no significant nutritional advantages over pasteurized milk. In fact, it poses over 100 times the risk of foodborne illness, which can be particularly dangerous for young children.
Despite these risks, advocates like McAfee argue that raw milk offers unique health benefits. ‘If raw milk was a fad or a lie, then why would people repeatedly buy raw milk and then tell the world how they love it,’ McAfee said. He points to the stories of families who believe raw milk has transformed their health as evidence of its benefits. However, exhaustive reviews of the published science on raw milk have been unable to substantiate these claims.
The Political Shift: Raw Milk and the Trump Administration
The regulatory landscape for raw milk has undergone significant changes in recent years. Under the leadership of Health Secretary Robert F. Kennedy Jr. the federal approach to raw milk has shifted to align with his priorities. Kennedy has publicly supported raw milk, even celebrating its benefits with a toast of raw-milk shooters in the White House.
This political shift has had a profound impact on the raw milk industry. In early June, ProPublica published a story highlighting the Trump administration’s policies reshaping federal health agencies. The story revealed a climate of fear among civil servants, where routine science had suddenly become politicized. One notable example was the changing approach to raw milk, which aligned with Kennedy’s priorities.
The Controversial History of Raw Farm
McAfee’s farm has a long history of being linked to outbreaks and recalls. Since 2006, it has been connected to eight outbreaks, affecting at least 233 people. One of the most notable incidents occurred in 2006 when six people contracted E. coli, including a 7-year-old boy who suffered permanent kidney damage.
Despite these incidents, McAfee maintains that his farm adheres to strict standards. He argues that the government’s tracking methods do not conclusively prove his farm’s responsibility for the outbreaks. However, federal and state regulators have linked his business to more than a dozen recalls and outbreaks, leaving hundreds of people ill.
In a surprising revelation, it was discovered that McAfee’s farm had a ‘standard practice’ of producing cheese from milk suspected or known to contain pathogens. This practice was only halted after federal regulators intervened. McAfee confirmed that the farm no longer diverts problematic milk to cheesemaking, although this claim has been met with skepticism.
The farm’s controversial practices have not gone unnoticed. In early 2026, federal regulators publicly linked its cheese to yet another E. coli outbreak, affecting nine people, primarily young children. McAfee contested the findings, asserting that the farm no longer uses milk flagged for issues in cheesemaking. Despite these controversies, McAfee remains a vocal advocate for raw milk, leveraging online influencers to promote its benefits.
