As a journalist, I’ve spent the past year investigating the harsh realities faced by farmworkers in the United States. The stories I’ve uncovered—of stolen wages, threats, and even sexual violence—have haunted me. But there’s another question that keeps me up at night: How can I, as a consumer, ensure that the fruits and vegetables I buy aren’t tainted by these abuses?
Blueberries, a staple in my diet and a major crop in Georgia, became the focus of my investigation. During long drives between Atlanta and rural farmlands, I pondered the disconnect between the idyllic images of farming and the grim truths I’d witnessed. Could I trace the origins of the blueberries in my grocery cart and determine if they came from farms with a history of worker mistreatment?
The Opaque Supply Chain of Blueberries
Federal regulations do not require blueberry brands to disclose the specific farms that supply their products. This lack of transparency makes it nearly impossible for consumers to make informed choices. I embarked on a mission to uncover the origins of the blueberries I purchase, starting with the labels on the pints in my local grocery stores.
After extensive research, I discovered that blueberry brands often source their products from multiple farms to meet demand and keep prices low. This practice further complicates the task of tracing berries back to their origins. However, I managed to trace one brand’s berries to an individual farm. Unfortunately, this farm had a troubling history: it had hired a labor contractor implicated in one of America’s largest labor trafficking prosecutions.
The Role of Labor Contractors in Farmworker Exploitation
The case I uncovered involved thousands of foreign farmworkers who were illegally charged fees to work in the U.S. Some were forced to pick crops for little to no pay, a situation prosecutors described as modern-day slavery. This was not an isolated incident; labor contractors have repeatedly been linked to the exploitation of farmworkers.
The existence of labor contractors is driven by the difficulty farmers face in finding sufficient labor. Many farmers rely on these contractors to bring in foreign workers and oversee their work. This outsourcing can shield farmers from responsibility for—or even awareness of—the harm inflicted on their workers. Labor regulators have consistently failed to ensure that contractors adhere to the necessary protections for workers.
The Fair Food Program: A Beacon of Hope
Experts in farm labor conditions and food supply chains point to the Fair Food Program as the gold standard for preventing worker abuse. Under this program, supermarkets and corporate buyers commit to paying a slightly higher price for produce—a mere few pennies per pound—to ensure stronger protections for workers. This minimal cost is unlikely to drive up prices for consumers.
Fruits and vegetables from farms participating in the Fair Food Program are labeled with a green sticker featuring a woman holding a basket of tomatoes. This label serves as a clear indicator that the workers who picked the produce were treated fairly. While dozens of farms have joined the program, only a few small blueberry farms participate, leaving consumers in the dark about the origins of their blueberries.
ProPublica reached out to over 75 blueberry brands, grocery stores, fast-food chains, farmers, trade groups, and labor contractors for this series. Only one brand, Dole responded, stating that it requires contract farmers to comply with labor laws to protect worker welfare. However, Dole has not made this information available to consumers. None of the major grocery and fast-food chains responded to questions about the Fair Food Program.
Until more farms join the Fair Food Program or similar initiatives, consumers will remain unaware of the conditions under which their blueberries are harvested. This lack of transparency prevents consumers from making choices that could improve the lives of the people who pick their fruits.
